Submitted by Ann Cueva
For The Voice
Hunters
Thank you so much, readers, for all of the Halloween stories you emailed to me. My friend Margo Henning wrote that she insisted her children eat their liver before Trick or Treating. That plus the fact that I almost got my deer without a license or tag a few evenings ago—weapon of choice—Suburban– reminded me of a once a year recipe.
This recipe was not only given to me, it came with personal instructions from my beloved Rose Lee Kvaas who resides in San Diego. Every year my uncle and his friends would venture back to Idaho for deer hunting in Bull Canyon near Rockland. This was the original family homestead area. They would return with trophies and the meat would hang for a few days and then be processed in the garage. I hated it. I hated the smell, the taste, the dark blood, and the thought of an animal being killed. The problem is I am definitely a carnivore, but I prefer to think the products which I use for cooking somehow magically appear from behind the meat counter at the grocery store.
The odd thing about game liver, though, is that unlike its counterpart, the Black Angus or Hereford steer, the liver is mild and not gamey. So in the fall I start stalking all of my hunting friends to remind them that I want them to take care of the liver and bring it to me. Fritz Murdock is the only person who usually follows my demands—oops, I mean polite requests. This includes examining the liver to see that it is healthy appearing, washing it in clean water vigorously (That means NOT from the nearby creek.), packing it in salt water, and putting it on ice until it is delivered to me.
When you look at this recipe, you will understand that one liver a year is plenty. However, it is so delicious that even liver haters have a revelation. One time Fritz brought me a large liver from a hunting trip. Dr. Dearing had overheard that I was going to prepare it. He told Fritz and me that he hated liver. In the lounge the next day where he was having lunch, he said, “This is really good. What is it?” “Looks like a liver sandwich to me,” I replied. Here it is. Don’t tell me I didn’t warn you in advance, but I promise it is worth the trouble. When Rose Lee taught me how to do this, we stood in the kitchen for two hours prepping the meat which takes only a minute or two to cook. cueva.ann@gmail.com
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Rose Lee’s Thyme and Lemon Game Liver
Render two cups of butter and set aside. I start this on a very low heat in the morning and by evening the oil has come to the top.
Slice the liver as thin as possible and then remove all of the veins and capillaries with a sharp paring knife. (This is the “it takes forever” part.)
Dust the slices with flour salt and pepper. Then fry quickly on medium high heat until slightly crispy in part of the rendered butter. Keep warm. Wipe out pan. Add the remaining rendered butter, the juice of two or three lemons and the leaves of ten sprigs of fresh thyme. (Dried thyme can be used as well, about one teaspoon.) Allow to cook down a little to blend the flavors and then smother the liver in the sauce, reheat, and plate.
Garnish with lemon slices and parsley.
